phastensteller elktroventil

[blubarchetta]

hallo leute hat jemand schon die erfahrung mit einen unter dauer 12 v gestellten magnetelektoventil ??

regelt der druck weiterhin automatisch oder bleib das verstelldruck konstant ?!  

ich wills mal einfach auf gut deutsch erklärt haben ! ich habe keine lust mehr auf so ne dumme erfindung "phasensteller"

sorry leutz will aber nur verstehen

also freu mich schon

[Lexikon]

Funktioniert nicht, Nockewelle verstellt, Steuerung weiß nichts davon, kein runder Lauf mehr unter 2000 Touren.

[blubarchetta]

ist das dieseln wenigstens weg ?! und was iust wenn mann die drosselklappe regelt ? hehe auf leerlauf 1900 rpm was hälst du davon?!

[blubarchetta]

Alles klar mir ist jetzt alles klar geworden und alles gut erklärt ! damit ist das thema abgeschlossen .bleibt nichts andres übrig den sch...ss PS

irgendwannmal zu tauschen ! schade weil ich ihn erst vor 1000 km gewechselt habe und schon rasselts wieder !


echt ! naja egal
ciao

[Lexikon]

ist das dieseln wenigstens weg ?!

Da der Motor relativ zügig augeht: ja, dann dieselt es nicht mehr.

und was iust wenn mann die drosselklappe regelt ? hehe auf leerlauf 1900 rpm was hälst du davon?!

Hervorragende Idee  

Es gab auf der internationalen Liste neulich eine interessante Theorie (angeblich schon erfolgreich angewandt):

Man entfernt das Elektroventil und baut irgendwie eine Unterlegscheibe drunter. Dadurch baut sich "ein wenig" Druck auf, der genügt um die Feder auf Spannung zu halten (=es klappert nicht) aber zu schwach ist, um den PS zu verstellen.

Originaltext:

Subject: Camshaft drive angle variator and how to Battle the Rattle!
A lot has been published on our site regarding the rattling sound
produced by this device.
As yet no simple solution has been given apart from an expensive
replacement of the complete variator unit.
On my own car , one of the first, a 1995 serial 4010 the unit was
replaced under warranty at KM 32000, now at 65000 the sound starts
again!
So I made a study of this phenomenon and came to the following
conclusion:
For a start , to drive a camshaft one should realise that the
intermittent torque requirement to drive such a shaft has been known
for centuries, so rattling gear or chaindrives have been common
problems in the after sales service.
Fiber composite gears and special tensioners for chains were
developed as a solution.
In the variable angle drive designed by Fiat for our Barchetta they
make use of an axial moving hydraulic piston fitted on a splined
shaft end of the camshaft.
This piston has on its outside diameter chamfered teeth connecting
the piston to the cogged belt drive drum.
So the intermittent driving torque has to be transmitted by the way
of this piston through axial sliding teeth.
In the "Activated "position from this piston there is no problem to
provide enough oilfilm to the splines, as the surface of the
activated piston is under load of pressurized engine oil.
In the "Not activated "position the oilpressure is bled off to sump.
The complete discharge from oil outof the piston cavity is helped by
the centrifugal force of the drive drum which rotates at half the
crankshaft rotation.
This results in a bone dry enviroment for the splined connections!
Responsible for the Active/Inactive signal to the variator is the
Hitachi engine management CPU which calculates the engine load from
several parameters.
By the way of a relais this signal produces a current flow through a
magnet coil which is mounted in the intake manifold casting between
the intake pipes of nrs. 1 and 2 cylinders..
When the coil is activated it draws a little pin down which serves
as a stop for a lube oil distributing spool serving the variator
piston.
In the activating mode, the distributing spool will close the
discharge port of the variator piston cavity and open the lube oil
pressure port to pressurize the piston.
In the notactivated position the lube oil pressure port is closed
and the piston cavity pressure discharged to sump.
Here is where we must make another adjustment, we must lower the
position of the magnet coil by 1 MM (40 thou) to attain a new lower
position of the lubeoil distributing spool, allowing for a slight
opening of the pressurized engine oil port and squeezing the
discharge port a little.
This will result in a lubeoil feed to the variator piston just
enough to build and maintain an oilfilm on the splined teeth
surfaces and stop the rattling sound!
How to go about adjusting the magnet coil position 1 MM down:
(1)
Disconnect the wire plug from the coil,unscrew the clamping bolts
and pull the magnet spool outof its bore.
(2)
Look into the bore, here you will see the top of the lube oil
distributing spool, pook your finger down and feel the movement of
the spool ,this can be pushed down agains a return spring mounted
underneath the spool , so the upward position is controlled by the
magnet controlled pin sticking outof the bottem from the magnetspool.
Evidently the position of this magnet spool in its bore determines
the position of the lubeoil spool.
The magnetspool has a rubber sleeve with a larger diameter collar
which fits in a recess in the bore, the bottom of this collar
determines the height of the magnet position .
We should now cut a slice of 1MM off the bottom this collar and the
resulting thin rubber washer should be placed on top of the collar
when mounting the magnet back into its bore.
ATTENTION! the top of the collar possesis two opposed rubber notches
which need a 1 MM slot to give way to the rubber washer!
(3)
Connect up the wire plug.
Now start up your engine, the first thing you will notice is that
the startup rattle is much less, just the fill up of the automatic
valve adjusters, then you find driving the car that the pickup at
1700 revs when the system kicks in is much smoother!
There is also a funny anecdote from my experimenting in finding
the exact new position for the magnet spool.
I first cut off a 2 MM slice and guess what happened, I made myself
a real oldtimer the engine at idle sounded like a real Triumph from
the 50 thies.
A very rough idle, the old boys had to make a choise , a valve
timing for high performance at the cost of a rough idle !
This is what I got going for too much flow into the piston cavity
and starting to move the piston without the CPU getting involved !
So this is my story, use it to your advantage at the expense of a
sharp Stanley knife instead of paying a fat Euro 1000.- repairbill !
I would like to hear your findings after you made this simple
intervention, it worked fine for me.

[Edewolf]

Bei mir wurde der PS vor 30tsd km gewechselt,also 4,5 Jahren .Laut Statistik kann ich also bald Diesel tanken.Aber im Ernst vielleicht ist es einfach eine Preisfrage, denn bei anderen Modellen läuft die Verstellung
über Öldruck, oder Aufladung,oder mal nen Toyota Celicia Motor einbauen.So holt sich Fiat sein Geld für die Entwicklung zurück

[Mille Miglia]

schade weil ich ihn erst vor 1000 km gewechselt habe und schon rasselts wieder !

Klingt für mich nach Garantie.

@Edewolf
Bei meiner wurde das Teil zweimal getauscht. Einmal nach einem Jahr und dann zwei Jahre später nochmal. Und seit 7 Jahren ist nun Ruhe.

[nerobarca]

schade weil ich ihn erst vor 1000 km gewechselt habe und schon rasselts wieder !

  da wurde ein neuer PS eingebaut und der ist jetzt schon wieder über`n Jordan? Dass die Feder irgendwann erlahmen kann ist bekannt, aber schon nach 1.000 km??
Mille hat es ja schon geschrieben: Garantie ist das Stichwort.

[Redfreddy]

Wenn ,,ERs"denn überhaupt ist.

RF

[nerobarca]

Wenn ,,ERs"denn überhaupt ist.

RF

ebent.